Shop Unique - 10 Questions With Our New Brand - Hurd & Co

Shop Unique  - Spotlight on Hurd & Co

Madia & Matilda curated selection of brands, SHop UNique features our independent designers and brand who share our passion and ethos for ethical fashion, jewellery and products. We interviewed Dawn Hurd founder & designer of Hurd & Co 

1. Can you tell us a little more about the brand?  

Hurd & Co started by complete accident. I had made myself a chunkyscarf, a friend popped in for a cuppa, as a jewellery designer she had been commissioned to accessorise a fashion show. Upon seeing the scarf she asked me to make 15 which she intended to embellish with brooches… all 15 scarves sold out. 

From the beginning I knew I wanted to distinguish the difference between homemade and handmade, therefore branding was a huge element to me right from the start. I wanted to bridge the price gap between high end brands and quality products.  I had every faith in my ability to produce a garment which was of a high standard and to present it in beautiful packaging but it was important to me for this to be an affordable option for people.

This amazing journey has taken me from knitting at my kitchen table with acrylic, selling at local school events right through to changing my entire business model in accordance with the United Nations Global Goals and being featured on their 2019 installation at the Pure London Fashion Show at Olympia.

I have come to realise that running a business brings with it certain responsibilities.  I am now in a position to be able to give a little something back by donating 10% of all sales to the mental health charity MIND.  I am also currently exploring local Sit & Knit groups where I can invite elderly people living in rural communities who are at risk of isolation, depression and loneliness to gather together to Sit & Knit, drink tea, eat cake and to share laughter and worries whilst we listen to Vera Lynn.  Having a transparent production line and knowing the origin of my materials is hugely important to me, knowing that I am not making money at the cost of other people or the planet.

2.How do you make your Products? 

I make all of my products by hand following my own designs

3.What is the products made from? Components? 

I only use 100% wool either a British Blue Faced Leicester or a New Zealand merino. Where possible using natural dyes.

The branded tags which are attached to each garment are a natural cork leather which are laser printed to avoid the need for ink.

4.What inspires you? 

Problem solving has been a strong influence for me.  Having un-diagnosed Coeliac Disease for many years has caused me to suffer from elements of malnutrition as a result. I have always  struggled to find a high boot which didn’t leave a huge gap around my calf and so the boot topper was designed to hide the fact that my legs were so small. Likewise I was fed up of being so clumsy when wearing gloves trying to use my phone or pick things up so I designed the wrist warmers. They are longer than a standard glove to provide more warmth and also fingerless to free your hands.

I also have to mention that I cannot help but be inspired by the beautiful county where I live. Surrounded by the most breath taking ever changing woodlands is a constant inspiration for colour and textural elements of my designs.

5.Where do you make the product and what does sustainability or making a quality British product mean to you?

Everything is made from my home in Somerset. I have sole responsibility over quality control and strive for the highest of standards from each garment. The wool is sourced from a family run mill in Yorkshire, this is important to me as I know I am supporting British farming and the British Wool industry 

6.Where you would you wear your knitted/products ? 

7.Favourite place to relax? 

A short walk from my home and I am surrounded by woodland, my favourite place to be. I like to see the changing seasons and collect reminders to display at home.

I believe to encourage longevity from fashion we need to design garments based on timeless style rather than trend.  My products were born from a need for practicality and versatility ideal to wearworking outdoors or when out for a long country walk needing to feel both comfortable and warm. Alternatively I feel they are just as suitable in the city as more of a style element rather than for practical use.  I like to keep things simple therefore sewing the scarves in place requiring no styling just pop it on and off you go.  When people wear one of my garments I want them to be transported back to being a child feelings of being comforted and warm, reminded of wearing something their grandmother may have hand knitted for them, its all about hygge.

8. In the future what styles do you plan to make next?

I would love to expand my children’s range incorporating woollen tweeds.

9. What do you think about sustainability and how does it impact your business?

The business started as a hobby. In the early days my priority was to keep my over heads down I started off selling acrylic. The growth of the business was very quick and I became increasingly aware of my responsibility to not only understand the production chain but also the environmental effects of my purchasing decisions. Watching the Stacey Dooley documentary Fashions Dirty Secrets was a game changer for me. I’m not in business just to make money, this was an opportunity to encourage change. I researched the United Nations Global Goals to see how I could comply, I changed from acrylic to wool, from leather tags to cork, ensured all of my packaging was made from recycled material and was recyclable. Every effort is made to ensure ethical and sustainable production.

I feel I have the ability to influence consumers to use the power of their £ and become more conscience when spending.

10. What do you like about collaborating with Madia & Matilda? 

The main thing that attracted me was the tag line Sustainable British Fashion, a cohesive message which totally compliments my brand and what I am trying to achieve.

To shop now, you can find Hurd & Co on our Shop Unique selection or under accessories on madiamatilda.co.uk .

Sincerely Madia & Matilda

Tartan - tastic

Simone - Chequered Print Wrap-Skirt

Here at Madia & Matilda, you might have guessed by our products that we are a definite fan of Tartan!

However, you might have missed some of our killer Tartan pieces, so here's a little reminder to refresh your memory this Spring.

                                                       Sincerely Madia & Matilda

Jessie Trouser

Lucinda - Wrap Skirt

Culture - Making Better Choices - Sustainable Fashion 5x 15 - Selfridges talk

Selfridges Bright New Things campaign, held an event for Sustainable Fashion - 5x15 talk and Selfridges on 18 February to inspire and intrigue the eco-conscious to the world of sustainable fashion. Hosted by Dilys Williams from the Centre for Sustainable Fashion 5 key industry figures. Daisy Schubert from Wardrobe Workshop attended and reported for Madia & Matilda.

Selfridges is the first department stores to achieve the Carbon Trust Standard for carbon, water and waste and is continuously supporting new sustainable & innovative designers or brands, so it comes as no surprise that Selfridges, should hold this event.

As the 5 key industry experts explore the subject of sustainable fashion; we look into the topics that they discuss. For sustainability a subject that is dear to our hearts, highlighted since the Rana plaza disaster; where a building collapsed killing 1,127 workers.

Dilys Williams – director of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, Dilys’ William Center Sustainable Fashion has helped embed sustainability into fashion education, business and research, as well as raise its political status. Host of the event, Dilly's talks us through the events aims. Bright new things enables young independent designer to have a platform to showcase their work. and to bring awareness to Sustainable Fashion.

David Hieatt – BNT founder of Hiut Denim Co. Driven by a desire to resurrect the denim manufacturing industry in his hometown of Cardigan, West Wales, David Hieatt’s Hiut Denim Co prides itself on taking a low-impact approach to fashion design. Britain’s biggest jeans factory, a town which was defined by what they produced, yet due to the struggles of fast fashion costing so little, the factory was closed down in 2001. However, David saw the beauty in the craftsmanship of a small town that was able to produce world class denim for 40 years and therefore resurrected a business, which stands on the principals of the purpose makes you strong, generating ideas that can keep craft and heritage alive. Each jeans has a history tag, to tell the story of the jeans, through today‘s modern technology, this makes the product feel more real to a customer.

David Hieatt answered a few of our questions,

The denim process can cause a lot of disruption to the environment can you tell us what you are doing in terms of innovation towards the dying process and wastage

The most wastage from denim production is water, this comes from washing denim, for that reason Hiut denim have a challenge called no wash club for 6 months, where you don’t wash your jeans. This leads to less pollution and denim is the most polluting of all clothing, although by using your denim jeans for 6 months without washing, the jeans become individual to you. Making Hiut jeans, the greenest jeans, because of this process. Hiut denim also gives free repairs of life, as they make a commitment to their denim production.

Lucy Siegle – journalist, for the Guardian on ethical and green living, Lucy has also written two books – Green Living in the Urban Jungle and To Die For – and champion’s environmental issues on TV and radio

Lucy Siegle talked about what we have become as consumers, that in the world today can be so demanding, expecting quality and quantity for the cheapest price, at this point, Lucy shows a very strong image of Veruca Salt, to convey the sense of  why ‘we feel like we have more rights! I want so I get’ culture, which has push the industry to its breaking point.  Every year an estimated £140 million worth (around 350,000 tonnes) of used clothing goes to landfill in the UK and in the US 193,000 tons thrown away annually

Manufacturing conditions, are poor in countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam & China, the quality of living is so apparent, yet as consumers we do not look at the narrative. Just of what we can get and how cheaply we can buy it. This quote by Ali Hewson, Edun; resonates with us ‘We carry the story of the people, who make our clothes around with us.’ So what does this hold for the future of Fashion, one thing is for sure, we cannot continue to sustain fashion in the way we have been. It is time of change and it starts with awareness, keeping in mind what the consumer wants as the new fashion culture.

http://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/transparency-fashion-industry-reality

Cameron Saul – founder of the Bottletop Foundation. Founded in 2002, the Bottletop Foundation brings to light the true craftsmanship from around the world and supports the highly skilled artisans and their families. 

The Bottletop Foundation was launched in 2002 by Cameron Saul and his father Roger (Founder of British luxury fashion brand Mulberry raising vital funds for Grass Roots education projects in Africa, teaching under privilege children new skills.

Each handbag is made from recycled bottle tops, consisting of upcycled aluminium ring pulls held together by crotchet, made in Brazil that was lined with Mulberry leather in Europe, Cameron discusses the process of making the bags with enamel paint and ring pulls from cans.

http://bottletop.org/

Cameron also talked about a subject which is an eye –opener, from an article which Lucy Siegle wrote about ranching on the Amazon Rainforest. Through further research, we found the topic astounding.

Forest conservation – In 2009 a report, from Greenpeace, Slaughtering the Amazon, linked cattle products used in top consumer brands to destruction of the Amazon Rainforest. Beef and leather buyers shortly thereafter announced they would no longer buy cattle products unless the industry improved the environmental performance of the cattle industry in the Amazon. This just goes to show what kinds of changes we can make.

 In turn the Greenpeace  report  highlighted an initiative in 2009 which in effect, virtually shut down the cattle industry in the Brazilian Amazon. Improving the traceability of beef and leather is significant because cattle ranching is, the largest driven cause of Amazon destruction: 80 percent of deforested land ends up as cattle pasture. Ranching is also Brazil’s largest source of greenhouse gas emissions.

If you feel inspired by this talk and want to make a change, why not read up on the brands you like, before purchasing a product made from leather, ask the store if they know where that leather came from. Even though a leather products that say that they are  “Made in Italy” or “Made in China” can be sourced from cattle raised in newly deforested areas of the Amazon.

http://news.mongabay.com/2010/05/deforestation-free-leather-comes-closer-to-reality-in-the-brazilian-amazon/

Bottletop has been a pioneering project which support the local cross cultured communities,which significantly portrays how diverse sustainability is. After the show the audience was able to discuss topics further with the industry experts and look and some of the products, for instance the Bottletop bags.

Daisy was surprised to find sustainable and fashionable clothing at such accessible prices. Her previous perception was that fair trade/organic/local clothing or accessories would be financially unattainable for the ordinary high street shopper. The event showed her that eco-friendly pieces don't have to cost the world. In fact, there is often no major difference in the pricing - making it no longer a question of affordability but purely a question of awareness! If you knew that you could get an organic apple at the same price as a non-organic one, wouldn't you go for the better option?

Storm Keating & Diana Verde Nieto – Positive Luxury brand ambassador, producer, model and wife of Ronan Keating, Storm works with Diana from Positive Luxury changing the face of consumerism for the better and shaping the way luxury lifestyle brands work - championing new brands with a sustainable focus.

Storm & Diana Verde Nieto talked about the language of sustainability being so complex and how, it can means so many different things to different people.  Today’s customers have more choices than ever and customers choose to do business with companies that are honest, even transparent. Traditionally business practices are sometimes misleading. Positive Luxury’s aim is to work with brands that consumers can trust, across all their products and services. In order to help brands grow with their consumer’s trust, Therefore, Positive luxury awards a Butterfly Mark, because they believe that every business can play a part in change and protect the world.

Thus making us think about, working with our team members, partners, customers and communities we can continue to do more with les; take action to help protect our environment and trade sustainably and ethically. We continue to reduce our direct impact year on year and encourage our suppliers and customers to do the same.

Stacey Dooley – documentary presenter Stacey rose to TV fame in 2009 after appearing on a number of investigative documentaries exploring wide-ranging topics, which stems from injustice in the world. Those topicis include child labour issues in developing countries to sex trafficking. 

Stacey explains what happened when she was immersed in to Indian culture in Dacka, Bangladesh for the television program, Blood Sweat and T-shirts on BBC3. Stacey describe her introduction to the fashion industry, as being a consumer who does not know any better,  being at a young and impressionable age where it seemed cool to buy  throw away fashion. We found this really interesting to see through the eyes of someone who did not know about the garment industry in Bangladesh. Since the show Stacey has made it her mission to bring to light the conditions and shop ethically.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00b0xsh

"Daisy explains that after leaving the event, sustainable fashion feels more mainstream, it could be the new normal. It's much more accessible and affordable than ever before to do good with the clothes we wear!"

What we took away from the event

Luxury retail shopping does not have to cost the Earth, by adding a positive contribution and educating ourselves on the brand we buy from, we can buy better as consumers and can change fashion for the better. Thus the need to move towards a more sustainable future, a future which is more transparent. For the customer to be more aware of where or whom their product come from, its origins and lifecycle. We believe the Selfridges talk Sustainable Fashion - 5 x 15 achieved their mission; by demonstrating the impact that fashion has on the environment.

#wearawar #selfridges #brightyoungthings #madiamatilda #makingbetterchoices #fashionrevolution #whomadeyourclothes

http://www.selfridges.com/GB/en/content/bright-new-things-events/?cm_re=Homepage-_-Slide5-_-BrightNewThings2016

Sincerely Madia & Matilda

Thoughts on value

Have you ever wondered why there is often such a big price difference between your average high street garment and a seemingly similar product from a sustainable brand?

People often say sustainable/eco fashion is too expensive, but is it? Or is fast fashion the costly one?

It depends how you measure it. Yes you can purchase a top for £15- £20 from a big high street brand, wear it a couple of times, throw it away, and as a consumer it hasn’t cost you much. However, it’s easy to forget that garment was made by a human being and the amount of labour and energy that goes into it staggering. For example, to turn a piece of cotton into a garment, first it must be planted, harvested, taken to a factory to be processed and spun into yarn. Then it’s taken to another factory, woven into cloth, sent to a dye mill, dyed and finished. Then it is sold to a manufacturer who must create an original design and pattern, test for fit and performance, cut and make the garment, ship and then market it, all before reaching the customer. People are involved for its whole journey, people who deserve a fair price for their labour. But unfortunately, to produce a garment with all of those processes involved and still sell it for a price we are willing to pay; someone along the line is missing out. 

The sad truth is what we class, as a reasonable, average price, is in fact, artificially low. These cheap prices shouldn’t be the norm; they are wrong, not the more ‘expensive’ eco brands. They are the ones causing costly damage to the earth and to the workers. For fashion to be sustainable it’s not meant to be fast, throw away and cheap. We’ve been trained to buy quantity over quality. Somewhere along the way we’ve lost sight of what is best for us and the environment.

This is where sustainable fashion comes in, as it tries to change perceptions of what is expensive and go back to valuing the right things. 

Sustainable fashion tends to be more expensive due to a number of factors:

Time – As a small brand it takes time to create new and original designs from scratch, develop a pattern and manufacture in a smaller environment.

Fair trade- It is cheaper to employ people abroad to make clothes, where minimum wages are a lot less than here in the UK. For example, an employer in China only has to pay their garment worker 60p an hour, whereas in the UK the minimum wage is £6.70. When buying from a sustainable clothing company that manufactures their clothes in the UK, you know the workers have been paid a fair wage for their labour.

Economies of sale- It’s cheaper to produce mass quantities of clothing if you are a large company. Small scale companies have to pay more to produce smaller quantities.

Quality – Finally, when buying from a sustainable brand, the garments have longer life spans and are well made.

To find out more about our thoughts on value, check out our youtube 

Sincerely Madia & Matilda

e::  info@madiamatilda.co.uk       w::  www.madiamatilda.co.uk/