Fashioned From Nature: My Day at the V&A

Beetles, Bustiers and Breaking Taboos

The exhibition is shedding a light on the cruel history of the Fashion Industry, and how it needs to change

The exhibition asks viewers to think about their clothes and their relationship to the world. Image: V&A

I went to see the Fashioned by Nature exhibition at the V&A yesterday. At the beginning of the exhibition were a couple of waistcoats with gorgeous embroidery showing flowers and monkeys. The jackets themselves were made of silk and another natural fibre and dated from the 1780-89. The detail and intricacy was unbelievable. The lines of thread were so carefully coordinated and planned, so painstakingly sewn into the fabric. Craftsmanship like that isn’t easy to come by these days, certainly not that kind. Imagining somebody wearing that waistcoat is difficult: it’s delicacy and beauty somehow render it impractical.

Men's waistcoat , 1780-89, showing Macaque monkeys. Image: The Guardian

In the next cabinet were some examples of lacework. These were extraordinarily delicate and detailed. Metres and metres of hand-sewn lace, coiled like a ribbon. I thought of the craftsperson, bent almost double, the night encroaching on them as they strained their eyes to see, the light of a single candle guiding the needle in and out of the fabric like a lighthouse signalling to a ship.

But that wasn’t the full picture. Beside the exhibits were notes explaining how the raw materials were sourced and processed. Here the full story came to light. Flax and cotton gathered and woven by slaves. Factories where women and children were taken advantage of and paid next to nothing. Workers exploited, garments made in bulk by vulnerable people, water sources polluted, air spoiled, indigenous populations abused or neglected, animals slaughtered and insects harvested, natural resources badly managed, creatures hunted almost to extinction for hats and corsets. It was eye-opening and appalling.

Slaves in a cotton field, c.1850. Image available under Creative Commons license

The thoughtlessness that has bloomed in fashion which grew out of the ever-growing need to express wealth and affluence in dress, and the desire to imitate nature, has often caused populations and habitats to decrease dramatically in size. The lack of respect for animals, fellow humans and ecology is staggering. The thing is though, it’s definitely got a lot to do with class. The amount of money it took to get hold of these materials, and in such large volume, must have been astronomical. Exotic beetles, wolves, raccoons, cotton, etc. had to be imported to the UK and must have cost a fortune. The people who eventually wore the clothes would’ve had little to no idea where it had come from, or the cost to the environment of their garment. The consumer was worlds away from the manufacturer.

Muslin dress decorated with beetle-wings, 1868-9. Image: V&A

These days you can easily find out where your garment was designed and made, but there are so many steps in between these two processes that your garment could have travelled half the world before being worn by you. And you would never know, just as you would never know how the materials your garment was made of were made or harvested, processed and worked into their final form. You wouldn’t know who had laboured over your garment, or who designed it.

The Who Made My Clothes campaign is taking off! Image: The Joinery

It calls for transparency in the fashion industry, to abandon the whims of the consumer by reducing the influence of fast fashion, and for more compassion for the environment. It also demands research into the manufacturing of materials alternative to those made from oil (polyester, nylon etc.). There are so many ways to make clothing sustainably if you do the legwork and don’t cut corners. Prolific designers such as Stella McCartney have already declared war on non-sustainable fashion. Speaking to Vogue, she said: "If you’re lucky enough to have a business on this planet, you have to approach it in this [sustainable] way." The Stella McCartney website has more details of where the brand stands on issues such as the environment, nature and people. 

One of Stella McCartney's latest collections was shot on a landfill site. Image: Stella McCartney

It really doesn’t need to be difficult, and the more people do it, the less it will cost in the end. I really hope people are woken up out of this crazy dream where the clothes they buy don’t have a huge, hidden cost to the planet and its population. Because nobody in their right mind would realise how detrimental conventional fashion practices are to the planet, and then carry on as before. Nobody.

Emma Watson wears a dress made from recycled plastic bottles, by Calvin Klein. Image: Teen Vogue

Fashioned From Nature is now showing at the Victoria and Albert until 27th January 2019

Text: Ophelia, admin assistant at Madia & Matilda 

Sincerely Madia & Matilda

Fashion Revolution Week - Meet The Team

Discover Madia & Matilda at the Ethical Fashion & Lifestyle PopUp. 

                We will be showcasing our collections at 

               39 Pepper Street, London, E14 9RP, UK.

Madia & Matilda is designed and produced in the beautiful Cotswolds by Shalize Nicholas. Shalize graduated from Manchester Metropolitan University after working within the industry for retailers and designers, such as Mary Katrantzou in Paris, Tesco's and Littlewoods. 

Set apart from the 'fast-fashion' industry, Madia & Matilda's chief objective is to create using zero waste ethics. Unfortunately, the fact that most fashion retailers view wearing the same clothes more than once as 'uncool' has negative effects on the environment. Clothes put into landfill create waste which takes years to biodegrade. We at Madia & Matilda oppose the rule that fashion is transient and disposable, and aim to produce garments with the lowest environmental impact possible.

What we are doing differently

Our brand was born from a wish to contribute positively to the idea of “slow fashion”. This view of fashion emphasises the importance of respect for the planet and the sources of the materials we use to make our garments. We hand-make all our clothes and have the greatest respect both for our workers and the materials we use. The clothes are made from recycled fabrics which might normally be thrown away. Some garments are up-cycled: transformed from old or unwanted garments to beautiful new ones. 

We also offer an alterations service in our shop, mending and adjusting customers’ worn and torn clothes to give them a new lease of life. 

Our clothes are intended to be timeless pieces to add to the customer’s existing wardrobe. In this way we like to think of our business as a kind of antidote to the rigid seasons-based fashion industry we are urged to subscribe to on the high street today.

Check our website for a general overview of what we do and to stay updated on our press releases. www.madiamatilda.co.uk

Opportunities 

Madia and Matilda provide opportunities for local and young people, encouraging them to gain experience. We work with universities and local colleges and initiatives, bringing production back to Britain. 

All our packaging is biodegradable and we recycle where ever possible.

Free registration: https://www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/kitty-ferreira-friends-ethic…to be kept up to date with in store events, from swishing to workshops.

Connect with our in store seamstress for repair, mend and alterations and details on each brand will follow shortly:) #whomademyclothes#fashionrevolution

Join Us - 5 Years In The Making

Five Years in The Making - Madia & Matilda

Celebrating 5 Years of Madia & Matilda!

Isn't it incredible to look back and realise just how far you've come? As a business, we have accomplished a great deal through these years of development, including working or collaborating with many influential local businesses and an education team who are shaping the future of fashion and presenting in Empire Casino, St Martin's in the Fields and London Fashion Week. We feel ultimately #blessed for the fantastic opportunities we have had on our journey so far!

Below is a small selection of pictures from over the years. 

Our peerless pioneer Shalize Nicholas (above; ain't she gorgeous!) started Madia & Matilda with the goal of making a difference in fashion: contributing positively to a less wasteful world. We are grateful to have grown as much as we have over this past year!

Our ShopUnique section is made up of carefully selected likeminded businesses who craft their products using sustainable materials or upcycling wherever possible. The concept behind ShopUnique strictly adheres to our principles, and those of other small businesses which regard sustainability and ethics as important solutions to the widespread problem of excessive consumerism in the fashion industry. We make handcrafted and locally produced items the stars of our show.

We really look forward to what is to come and hope that you will be with us all the way!

A big thank you to all who have followed and supported us over the years! As it's our

5th birthday this month we thought we'd show our appreciation to you, our beautiful customers, by adding free Worldwide delivery for the rest of the month! 

Follow us on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram or Youtube

#madiamatilda 

@Madia & Matilda 

                   
                                      

Sincerely Madia & Matilda

Shop Unique - Brands Feature - Lily Flo Jewellery

Madia & Matilda curated selection of brands, SHop UNique features our independent designers and brand who share our passion and ethos for ethical fashion, jewellery and products. We interviewed Diana Sherling founder & designer of Lily Flo Jewellery 

1. Can you tell us a little more about the brand?

I grew up in a family who loved art and travel, but it was the art of the Ancient worlds of Greece and Rome that really captured my heart and soul all through school and university culminating in lecturing at the British Museum. Much of my aesthetic is inspired by the art of the ancient world. However, it was my career in luxury advertising as a global strategist for some of the worlds largest advertising agencies that helped shape my sense of style and fashion. I believe in the power of great style, in contemporary twists on timeless style, and how jewellery is essential to finish a modern and elegant wardrobe. I started Lily Flo Jewellery in 2015, frustrated that I couldn’t find the jewellery I desired, ignited my passion for designing and making, learning traditional jewellery skills with a modern take

2.How do you make your jewellery?

Passionate as much about design as much as craft, I learnt metal smithing and gemstone setting at the University of Arts London, but I designs from the heart and everything is made in my studio in London. I love to experiment, curious about creating new shapes and designs through my love of mixing traditional techniques with the innovation of creating new shapes. I have always had a passion for colour, and often select the colour palette first before choosing the gemstones. When I do, I am particularly drawn to the symbolic and empowering nature of gemstones, often playing with the contrasts of rough and finessed, precious and industrial. All the jewellery is made in our studio in London. We believes in authenticity and honesty throughout the supply chain, materials and working practices and be ensuring that everything is made under her meticulous eye.

3.What is the jewellery made from? Components?

Why did you choose this material? Our fine jewellery uses Eco Gold and Silver sourced from the best in Hatton Garden, the Diamond Jewellery centre of London. Eco Gold and Silver is high quality recycled gold and silver without human or environmental impact. Its the most green you can get. We source our gemstones and diamonds directly from India, where every stone is cut and faceted by hand from rough, using contemporary cuts. They are sourced from small businesses who we have personal, long term and trusting relationships with us to not only does ensure quality, but we feel passionately about businesses helping each other. Whilst gemstones are responsibly sourced and our diamonds are sourced through suppliers that adhere to the Kimberley Process and the World Diamond Council's System of Warranties, preventing the distribution of conflict diamonds both in rough, cut and polished stones.

4.What inspires you?

I often visit galleries and museums in London and around the world. I love ancient and modern art milling through the British Museum or the V&A, fine portraiture of Klimt and Rembrandt as well as weird sculptures at the Serpentine and lighting installations. I love colour, texture and form, but art that is imbedded in culture and has something to say. I read a lot of biographies and autobiograhies of artists and designers, fascinated as much about Georgia O’Keefe as Tracey Emin, Diane von Furstenberg and Coco Chanel. I am currently reading Vidal Sassoons Biography which is fascinating.

5.Where do you make the product and what does sustainability or making a quality British product mean to you?

Everything is made in our studio in London. I design everything and make everything as far as possible using traditional silver and goldsmithing techniques. Sustainable and responsible production is at the very heart of the brand and the ethos of why I made the brand into what it is today. I see many other British jewellery brands either outsource the manufacture abroad often to China and Thailand where large factories make the pieces at the lowest price, faceless workers, unsure conditions, all for the lowest possible retail price. It just didn’t feel ethical, honest, right for me. I wanted to create a brand that is ethical, credible, pure, loved for the designs as much as the people who make them. Passionate about more than just the product, but people and the environment. A brand that can live and evolve and I felt the only way to do this was to be true and have a long term view of every part of the design and creation process. For me that means made in London. It means using ethical and responsible materials, metals and gemstones as far as I possibly can. Our metals come from Hatton Garden to ensure quality. It means reusing and limiting the waste of the actual making and supporting small businesses through packaging, retouching everything. I am a born and bred Londoner. I have lived and worked in London my whole life. I love London and never tire of it. So being a British Designer is very important to me and I aspire to represent British as a top British Jeweller one day.

6.Where you would you wear your jewellery?

I specifically design jewellery that can be ageless, timeless, occasion-less. It is designed to wear all the time to feel strong...personal symbols of independence and freedom. ‘I bought this for myself, I wear it because I earned it, it makes me happy..’

7.Favourite place to relax?

I love being by the water… ideally the sea, on a boat swimming.. I’m a massive gym bunny and love jogging in Hampstead Heath..

8. In the future what styles do you plan to make next?

I’m working on extending my fine jewellery collections, for the International Jewellery Show in London in September 2017. Named Stardust it will feature droplets of multi coloured Sapphires, Tourmalines and Diamonds in delicate and dainty shapes, like waterfall chandelier earrings, multi-layered necklaces and bracelets, soft to wear, falling on the contours of the body, smooth and delicate.

9. What do you think about sustainability and how does it impact your business?

I have built my business around being sustainable and responsible. It’s very much a conscious decision to build it to be ethical from the ground up. It’s easier to do it this way than have a business and then change as much as possible to be ethical and responsible. It’s part of everything who we are and what we do. We are all about being good, honest and responsible from the products we make, the partners we choose to sell with, our suppliers and our customers. We believe that there is a massive trend in consumer’s behaviour to be better educated and more knowledgeable about who, what and how products are made. So although they are little treats and beautiful pieces that uplift and simply make women happy, it is genuinely a vital part that they can feel reassured and comfortable that they were made honourably too.

10. What do you like about collaborating with Madia & Matilda?

There aren’t many retailers that genuinely put sustainability and responsibility at the heart of the business. Without a question, great product comes first. Beautiful fabrics, exceptional cut and shapes, insightful and inspiring colours and fabrics, but heart and soul means a great deal. Shalize created her business with that at the heart, she is a great designer.. Yet she has given herself the added challenge of making her products sustainable. We know there is a great deal of wastage and fast fashion has helped augment the issues of sustainability, but Shalize has quietly and confidently addressed them from within and produces on trend, key essential pieces, well priced with a soul.

To shop now, you can find Lily Flo on our Shop Unique selection or under accessories on madiamatilda.co.uk or in-store in our boutique.

Sincerely Madia & Matilda